Saturday June 21 – Tokyo

Woke up around 6 am this morning but lounged around a bit before heading down for a quick egg and bacon sando before seeing out for Ginza.

Took the Marunouchi subway line one stop to Ginza and walked around.   Ginza is known for its many high end restaurants, stores and art galleries.  

As we were a bit early,  a lot of stores were not yet opened; however, the 10 floor stationary store,  Itoya, was opened so we managed to spend about an hour and a half looking around.   So much stuff!  Getting cards, craft supplies,  wallets,  agendas, pencils, colored pens and expensive pens,  including an $11,000 pen!  Definitely,  wouldn’t want someone asking to borrow that one.

Then checked out the Matsuya department store food floor – so much food that looked so good.  No places to eat there so we ended up going for ramen at a nice place down the road.

Shiro ramen with spicy roe

Had a craft beer with the ramen that was quite hoppy.

We then spent over an hour going through the Uniqlo flagship store that had 12 floors and about a billion tourists.  Had a whole floor of graphic t-shirts so I ended up buying a couple.

Afterwards,  considered getting a drink at the Lions Beer Hall,  which was built before the Second World War.   However,  there was a line and we weren’t interested waiting in line so wandered back towards the metro, first locating our restaurant for dinner and then stopping at a chopstick store,  which sold some expensive chopsticks.

The Ginza metro station feels very slick and high end and had some art work on display, including this glittering piece:

Got back to Tokyo Station and had a couple of beer at a place on the second floor before heading back to the hotel for a quick break before dinner.

After a very short nap and a shower,  we headed out for our nice kaiseki dinner at a place in Ginza.   Took the metro line there and walked the couple of blocks to the restaurant,  Ginza Adachi Naoto.  Small place with 6 seats at the bar and two tables for 4 people each.   Dinner was a 9 course kaiseki dinner.  

Kaiseki dinner at Ginza Adachi Naoto

The meal includes various types of courses including a soup course,  a sashimi course, a tempura course and a dessert.  The dessert was a great pink grapefruit and milk custard that was a great finale to the meal.   We had some sake to start and then some white wine.

After the 2.5 hour dinner we headed back to our hotel as I was definitely feeling sleepy.   Also needed to pack up and get some sleep before my shinkansen ride tomorrow to Hokkaido.

Friday June 20 – Tokyo

Slept well last night and, apart from a trip to the washroom, only woke up when my alarm went off at 7 am.  Felt like I could have slept until 9, if I didn’t set it.

Got ready and we went for breakfast at a noodle place in the station.   I had an iced coffee and the cold duck soba, which was a perfect breakfast as it was refreshing and didn’t feel too heavy.   The restaurant was nice and felt almost like you were sitting in a train car in the middle of the station.

After breakfast we headed to Shinjuku on the metro to do some exploring.  Spotted Godzilla, ready to attack Tom Cruise.

Godzilla!

Wandered around Shinjuku, starting with the seedier area, Kabukicho, which has a number of pachinko places,  peep shows and restaurants.   The Golden Gai area is also over there with tiny bars.  Not very lively in the morning while we were there though.

Went to the Levi’s store,  where you can get custom embroidery done on the jeans and jackets.  Also wandered around few floors of the Bic’s store,  which seems everything from pharmacy items to washers and dryers to cameras and electronics to watches,  including Rolex and other high end watches.  

Moved back closer to the station and went to Takashimaya department store and wandered around some of the 14 floors.

Stopped on the 14th floor for lunch at a waygu yaero restaurant.   I had the set with the tempura, which included the miso soup,  egg custard with potato, crab and shrimp,  and the waygu with rice,  poached egg and bonito broth.  A big lunch but an amazing meal.

Waygu yaero

After lunch wandered around and visited a few vintage shops,  one had a bright orange pair of pants that cost $20,000 – definitely not a Value Village!

Took a JR train back to Tokyo Station and picked up an iced coffee at a little supermarket in the station that also sold bottles of Moet Chandon for around $45.

After a bit of a rest, we took the JR Yamanote line to Akihabara to check out the lights and shops.   Grabbed some ramen for dinner as it was quick.  Had some gyoza as well.

Dinner

Then wandered around a bit and checked out a few shops,  including Bic and a trading card store that had one for sale for almost $30,000!

Akihabara

It’s Friday night and the main street seemed to attract a bunch of high end cars and car enthusiasts with people crowding around, taking photos.

There even appeared to be a gathering of miata enthusiasts!

Headed back to the hotel in the Yamanote line for some rest before my last full day in Tokyo tomorrow before I head off to Hokkaido on Sunday.

Thursday June 19 – Tokyo

Up at 4 am this morning after going to bed at 10 pm last night.   Felt a bit sleepy and tried to get a bit more sleep but ended up getting up around 5:30.  Had some coffee in the room – and decent pour over pack that definitely helped wake me up.   Had a nice shower before getting ready.  

We went down to the station shop area and found a nice little bar restaurant to have a sando.  I got one with bacon and another plain one with an iced coffee.  The sandos were really tasty.

After breakfast, we managed to collect our Shinkansen tickets from the machine and load/buy Suica cards.

We then made a quick stop at the hotel before heading out to Asakusa and the Senso-ji Temple.   Very crowded by the temple with a lot of tourists.   Walked down to the Kappabashi street area,  which has a bunch of kitchen and knife stores.   Spent a lot of time looking in stores both out of interest and to get some air conditioning as it was very warm and humid.

Feels hotter!

Went to a place for lunch and had some beef tongue yakiniku set and a very large beer.   Probably a bit warm out to be grilling in front of the hot grill but it was easy and good!

Beef tongue set

Did a bit more wandering around and looking at various shops,  including a store that had a high end vintage section, which included various luxury brands like Rolex, Louis Vutton, and Hermès.

Then caught the Ginza line back to the hotel and grabbed a water and an ice cream sandwich to enjoy in my air conditioned room

After a quick break in the room, headed out for a bit of a walk to the Imperial Palace.   Still hot out but less direct sun.  Took a few photos before heading back towards the hotel.

Headed back for dinner at a sushi conveyor belt place close to the hotel, which was great and a lot of fun.   We managed to get the Hokkaido salmon before it sold out.  Also tried some lobster guts, scallop,  crab,  roe, three roe of tuna, mackerel and some others.   They had a screen at the table where you order and then the sushi you picked comes flying down the conveyor belt and stops at your table.   You collect it and press a button on the screen.   Very fun!

Sushi!

After dinner,  wandered around for a bit and then headed for a beer in a craft brewery a few levels up.   Definitely a lot of local people in this place enjoying after work drinks.   I have a beer called Cat Punch.

ねこぱんち (Cat Punch)

Looks like Vector Brewing makes a number of cool beers:

Afterwards, we went back to the hotel as everyone was pretty tired!

Tuesday June 17/Wednesday June 18 – En route to Tokyo!

Early morning to get ready for my 8:25 am flight from Calgary to Vancouver. No issues getting to the airport with the G7 in town. Managed to get through security and to the lounge in about 5 minutes. Had some coffee and relaxed – definitely started feeling the lack of sleep.

Flight to Vancouver was quick but still got a full breakfast with more coffee and orange juice. As usual, the minute I get my food and full cup of hot coffee, the turbulence starts! Managed to avoid spilling the drinks.

Got to Vancouver on time and was an easy transfer to the international departures without having to go through security again. Had a 4 hour layover so relaxed in the lounge, trying to stay awake.

Boarded my flight to Tokyo and was dismayed with the number of kids in the business class. My irritation was exacerbated by tiredness and the lack of champagne! The dad of one of the families apparently doesn’t fly up front very often as he thought he should try to push my bags and cram his bags in my overhead bin, not even checking the bin right above his seat. I set him straight pretty quick!

They finally came around with the champagne and the flight improved, particularly after a few more glasses and the noise canceling headphones. Nice Japanese meal for dinner and managed to get a bit of sleep but didn’t want to sleep too much.

Had a bit of breakfast and got off the plane, through immigration and customs pretty quick as they have us a fast pass, not that the regular line looked bad. Got a ticket on the Narita Express train, which takes me right to my hotel.

Got to my hotel after navigating my way through Tokyo Station (so many exits) and checked in. It’s 34C here today and when got to my room they have the heated toilet seat on… not sure that’s really required!

Took a brief walk to a bookstore around the block before my friends arrived.

Went to Tokyo Ramen Street below the station by the hotel for a quick dinner and beer and then walked around the shops for a bit.

Now ready for some much needed rest!

Sunday September 17 – Ifaty – Antananarivo 

Another relaxing morning as we wouldn’t be flying out of Ifaty to Antananarivo until the late afternoon. Had time to relax in the morning and sit on the beach a bit. Definitely a warm day out!

Had some fish sticks with fries for lunch and then prepared to drive to the Tulear airport for our flight to Tana. The Tulear airport was very basic and the “security” consisted of a man at the entrance to the security asking certain passengers, me included, if we had any guns or knives as he pointed at the sign. He didn’t ask me about liquids, just the guns and knives. You then head to a desk where the two staff take a peak in your carry on luggage – just a peak, so I’m guessing they are relying on the passengers to honestly answer the “no guns, no knives” question at the door!

Once you’re in the secured area there was some windows open onto the tarmac, which they did close once it got dark – likely more to keep out the mosquitos than to keep people in or out. The boarding process was pretty quick as they managed to unload and load up the 737 in probably about 15 minutes. There was another “Security check” on the tarmac beside the plane, in the dark – no sure how effective that was!
Landed in Tana and had a final group dinner at a restaurant near the airport, which was surprisingly good. I had a zebu steak with some cheese sauce and rice. We then headed back to the airport to change money and get our flights – half of us to Paris and the others to Nairobi and then London. Was a very long day and I could barely stay awake for the 1:30 am flight! Pretty much fell asleep as soon as we took off!

September 28 – Great Glen Way – Day 7 – Blackfold to Inverness

Got our transport to Blackfold to start our final leg of the walk into Inverness. Was sunny when we left the B&B but a few drops started after our hike began so we used the ponchos for a final time. The shower was quick and the rest of the walk was nice weather.

It wasn’t too long until we got the top of the hill overlooking Inverness but the walk down and through the town was about 4 or 5 miles. There was a nice island park around the river and canal which was quite nice.

We finally made it up to the castle, how a type of courthouse, which marked the end of the Great Glen Way! We snapped some photos to celebrate our successful completion and then hit the Castle Tavern across the street for some celebratory drinks and lunch.

After a nice rest we walked the few blocks to our B&B for a shower and rest before dinner.

September 26 and 27 – Great Glen Way- Day 5 and Day 6

September 26 – Day 5 – Invermoriston to Drumnadrochit

A long day today as we walked 14+ miles from Invermoriston to Drumnadrochit. The weather was okay to start as we climbed the hill out of Invermoriston and made it to the viewcatcher sculpture on the high route.

It was a long day of walking, including a few long sections of tarmac. It started raining on the one long section of tarmac before the final descent into the village.

We stopped at the Nessieland Hotel pub, which was warm and cozy for a pint before heading to the B&B next door. Weren’t able to get in there for dinner though so ended up a bit further back at the Fiddler, which was cozy and good amid had a great “boozy ice cream”!

September 27 – Day 6 – Drumnadrochit to Blackfold

We actually ended up doing Blackfold to Drumnadrochit as it is difficult to time the pick up in Blackfold for the return to Drum. An added benefit of getting driven out to Blackfold and hiking back to Drum is that it is mostly downhill ?.

Another fairly long day of about 20 km of so. The weather started bleak and we had our rain gear on expecting a bad day. However, the sun ended up coming out and we were able to get some decent views of Urquhart Castle and Loch Ness. On the way we also stopped in at this forest cafe and had a great lemon sponge cake and coffee in the forest.

Also went through the “Newfie Forest” which was apparently logged by Canadians (many from Newfoundland) during WWII to supply wood for the war.

The last few km along the road was tedious but we stopped at the Cobbs Cafe before heading to the B&B to prepare for dinner again at the Fiddlers.

September 25 – Great Glen Way – Rest Day in Invermoriston

Had a day in Invermoriston to relax before completing the final three walking days. We ended up taking the bus to Urquhart Castle and then a taxi to Drumnadrochit to visit the Loch Ness Exhibition Centre for a history of the Loch Ness monster and scientific efforts to explore the lake.

Had dinner at the Glenmoriston Arms pub next door before preparing for the long walking day to Drumnadrochit.

September 23 and 24 – Great Glen Way- Day 3 and Day 4

September 23 – Great Glen Way – Day 3, South Laggan to Fort Augustus

A fairly long day today along Loch Oich and the canal to Fort Augustus. The first day where there was no real rain and the ponchos remained closed. The first bit of the trail was along an old railway line and the old Invergarry railway station, which was being rebuilt as (presumably) a tourist site.

The path continued along to a lock where we stopped for lunch. The path then continued between the River Oich and the canal. The weather was nice and the path very flat but the distance seemed to be longer than advertised in the book and notes. We did, however, manage to get into the pub in Fort Augustus before a shower started! Had a drink while we waited to check into the hotel at the Lock Hotel. Crossed the canal to the B&B, which had an amazing view from the breakfast room of a crumbling old railway bridge.

Had dinner at this Boathouse on the shores of Loch Ness, which also appeared to be where a birthday celebration was being held with some families with the worst behaved kids I have seen for a long time!

September 24 – Great Glen Way – Day 4, Fort Augustus to Invermoriston

Took the high route to Invermoriston, which afforded fantastic views of Loch Ness and the past days walks along the canal. There was a decent elevation gain to above the tree line, where we hiked along the moors. The weather was great with only a few minutes of rain as we hiked up the forest. The walk above the tree line was sunny with a bit of wind at times.

We then had a ‘knee crushing’ (as described by the book) decent into Invermoriston, which is on the river, slightly away from Loch Ness. Stopped at the Glenmorriston Arms for a beer before we checked into our B&B next door.

Had some venison for dinner before heading back to the B&B to relax. A rest day tomorrow.

September 20 – 22 – Glasgow to Fort William and Day 1 and 2 of the Great Glen Way

We caught the 12:21 train from Glasgow Queen Station to Fort William to where we would start the walk. Almost a 4 hour train ride but with now connections so pretty easy, apart from the banshee squealing brakes on the train that were periodically applied. The scenery became pasture like and then rolling hills.

We took a taxi from the train station to our first B&B, Gowan Brae House. The rooms were nice and we settled in and then took a walk down to the village for dinner at a little pub. Afterwards we walked the shops a bit and then stopped for another drink at another pub.

September 21 – Great Glen Way – Day 1, Fort William to Gairlochy

After our filling Scottish breakfast we set out from our B&B to the start of the Great Glen Way, conveniently located near the train station and McDonalds. We walked through the village of Caol and stopped at Corpach on the canal to pick up the key for the toilets along the way. The Caledonian Canal is a sister canal to the Rideau Canal.

We then walked along the canal and stopped for lunch at a restaurant beside Neptune’s Staircase, which is a number of locks in a row to take the boats up the hill. The rest of the day’s walk was mostly along the canal. Had sporadic spots of rain during the day but not for very long at any point. We then turned off the path to head to the B&B, stopping for a great rainbow!

The basic walk was about 10.5 miles but with the distance from the B&B to the start of the trail and the distance to the next B&B, it was closer to 19.5 km.

Got to our B&B and were welcomed by our host, Helen, with tea. Helen was a nice lady with very distinct views. After we settled she drove us into Spean Bridge for dinner at a restaurant at the railway station. On the way to dinner she seemed to be driving pretty fast considering it was a winding, narrow road and her defrost didn’t seemed to be clearing the window! Regardless, we made it to and from dinner.

September 22 – Great Glen Way – Day 2, Gairlochy to South Laggan

A long walk today through some forest and along Loch Lochy. Periods of rain but still pretty decent weather. Nowhere to stop for lunch but we had some apples and sandwiches from Helen, which we ate on the forest path.

We had planned to stop at The Eagle, a floating barge pub and restaurant on the way into Laggan but it was closed. So we ended up heading to the B&B, which was through a forest and then back down the road towards the Eagle. The hosts were a very friendly couple, who cheered us on as we came into the driveway. They drove us to the only open restaurant in town at the Lodge. Then back to the B&B to bed after a long day.