India 2016

India 2016


Saturday September 3 – Trek Day 3 – Cross Ganda La (4,970 m) to Skiu (3,362 m)

Woke up to snow on the ground of the camp this morning.   Woke up about 15 times during the night to go to the washroom but, surprisingly,  felt well rested and was up and getting prepared at the tent tea wake up call time at 6:30. As we were having breakfast the snow started again so everyone was dreading the crossing of the Ganda La pass.  We headed out in the snow, which was probably better than rain as at least it can be brushed off.   The route to Ganda La followed part of the acclimatization walk we did yesterday before turning up towards the pass.   It actually wasn’t too bad hiking in the snow.   I was in the middle of the pack and managed to beat out ponies to the top.   Could definitely feel the heart pounding the last stretch.   The views from the top were amazing and the weather on the other side looked much better.   While we waited for the others in the group to finish we did a bonus climb of a little hill at the top of the pass that took us to 5,000 m.  Climbed down and we were still waiting for the others so thought about doing the other hill,  which was also about 5,000 m but turned back after going up a bit as it was much steeper than the other hill.  The others finally arrived at the top and we saw them briefly before starting our decent,  given we had been up there for some time.   The views on the way down were beautiful – so many colors!  We descended to a village area at the bottom, past which was our lunch stop at a Tea tent.   Had some onion soup,  bread,  cheese and curry vegetables.   We had waited for quite some time for the others but finally ate when it appeared that they would be some time.   Just as we were getting ready to leave they showed up.  We left while they got ready to eat.  The last 2.5 hours to the camp was through some spectacular river gorges with colorful rock walls.   We crossed the river a number of times but fortunately the water level was low and we could just cross on the stones.  Once we exited the canyon we crossed through to another river valley and walked a short distance down a road to our camp site at Skiu.  The camp was shared with others and was not as spacious and private as our past camps.  However,  the toilet (I.e. hole in the ground) is probably a slight step up and more easily accessible.  Relaxed for a bit until the others arrived – they had made better time than before.   Set up our tents and had dinner,  which was tomato ginger soup,  noodles with vegetables,  curried eggs,  eggplant and potatoes.  After dinner some of us played a few rounds of cards and then I headed to bed to write up my blog and get some sleep as we have an earlier start tomorrow.  Felt good today and enjoyed the long walk. 


Friday September 2 – Trek Day 2 – Rumbak to Ganda La Base (4,539 m)

Woke up before the wake up call and tent tea and started getting organized.   Had my tea, which was super hot and ended getting spilled in my tent.   Washed up and got my stuffed packed up and then headed for breakfast.   Had some eggs, toast, porridge and tea.  We began trekking at 8:30 and started heading up through a river valley.  The rock formations and colors were amazing – lots of purple rocks with copper and some teal blue colored rocks.   Felt pretty good trekking until we got to the tea tent where we stopped for lunch – felt a slight headache.   After lunch of Indian bread,  green bean and vegetables and cauliflower and potatoes, we headed the last bit up to our camp.   Some spectacular views from the camp and my tent looks directly to some mountains.  Felt the headache still. After setting up our sleeping bags we went for an acclimatization walk to the top of a ridge at about 4,600 metres.  Along the way we saw some hares and marmots.   The views from the ridge were very impressive and we even had a couple of flakes of snow fall.   We then headed back down to our camp at around 4,400 metres.  When we arrived in camp we had tea with cakes and biscuits.   Felt better initially after the walk but started to feel the headache again and felt an bit nauseous after the cakes and cookies.   Had some time before dinner so went to the tent to take an Advil and have a nap.   Slept well and woke to the dinner gong.    For dinner we had vegetable soup and papadom, momos (yum! ), French fries and cucumber salad, which I opted not to eat.   Felt much better after the nap.   Was raining while we ate but stopped after dinner.  Headed back to the tent to write my blog and get to bed as we have a long day tomorrow,  crossing our first pass. 


Thursday September 1 – Trek Day 1 – Jinchen to Rumbak Sumdo (3,879 m)

Woke up this morning to finish my packing and prepare for the trek.   Started to freak out when all the stuff I laid out last night to pack wouldn’t fit in my trek bag.   Went for breakfast and sorted out the packing afterwards.   Managed to get everything I needed into the bag in time to meet the group at nine to catch the jeeps to the starting point. The jeep ride was about 1 hour or so and then we got out and prepared to start walking.   The trail followed along a river, surrounded by rocks on both sides.   The colors were amazing – reds,  oranges, greens,  purples, brown, gray and the brilliant blue sky.  We crossed the river,  which was fairly low looking,  twice by bridge.  We came to a tea tent where we ate the boxed lunch we were provided,  which included a banana,  a boiled egg, a boiled potato,  a chocolate bar, a pineapple juice and a cheese and vegetable sandwich.   Also included were little packets of salt and pepper.   Bought a wool stuffed snow leopard.  The camp was right next to the tea tent so we got our tents and the ponies arrived with our bags.   Set up our sleeping bags and then went out for a short acclimatization walk to the village of Rumbak.  We had some tea there – I went for the yak butter tea, which was quite tasty,  although I think I was the only one in the group that actually liked it.   After the tea we walked to a stupa where there was a great view of some various mountains and hills.  Off to bed now as I am feeling tired.  Wake up tea is at 6:30 tomorrow. 


Wednesday August 31 – Leh

Woke up this morning around 3 am to go to the bathroom and noticed that the wifi was working well so I managed to update my blogs and upload a few photos.  Went back to sleep until it was time to get up around 6:30.  Had the usual breakfast and then caught our jeeps to take us to the Khardung Pass, which sits at 5,602 m and, according to the sign is the highest motorable road in the world.  The road to the pass was narrow and winding.   Initially it was paved but turned to gravel a ways up.   The non paved section was pretty bumpy and sitting in the back of the jeep left one bouncing around quite a bit – fortunately I don’t get car sick and am not that tall so it was fine.   As we got higher and higher up,  there was a bit of snow.  When we reached the pass there was quite a bit of snow and ice.  We got out to use the toilets, which were outhouses on the edge of the hill with spectacular views, and to take some photos.   It was definitely cold up there and the air was thin.   After getting some photos we headed back down to Leh in the jeeps.   Another sunny and warm day with bright blue skies.  We stopped at a donkey sanctuary on the way, where sick or injured donkeys are looked after. We then went back to the hotel and then some of us went for lunch and shopping. At 4 pm we met the guide for an acclimatization walk up to Leh Palace and the stupa above it. It was a bit of a climb and the sun was very warm.   Walked around and then headed down and across town to the Japanese Pagoda to watch as the sun lowered.  After we walked back to the hotel for a brief 30 minutes to shower and freshen up before dinner.  We met for dinner – I had chicken fried rice,  which was okay.   The got some water and headed home to pack for the trek tomorrow.   I will be gone and out of wifi and cell range until about Septrmber 9.  Wanted to post some photos but so exhausted and need to finish packing.  


Tuesday August 30 – Leh

Woke a few times in the night but woke up at 6:20 feeling pretty good.   Had a nice warm shower – apparently the hot water can be sporadic, like the wifi here.   Went down for breakfast and had some fried eggs,  toast,  porridge and herbed potatoes.  After breakfast we got in our jeeps to head out to Shey Palace, which was where the royal family of Ladakh lived a few hundred years ago.   The palace was perched on a hill so we climbed up,  taking the rocky back way as it is apparently right to go clockwise up.   Our local guide was the group leader from last year’s trip to India,  Chosphel.  We walked around the palace, which does not have much left now but the views from the top were impressive and the clouds were beginning to clear, leaving extremely blue skies. We then headed down and walked across a field to Tiktse Monastery,  which was also situated on a hill.  The walk was pleasant and easy,  apart from the fact I had to take a leak.   Glad I wore my sandals as we had to cross a large puddle.  I had no problem and just walked straight through.  We finally came to the Monastery, where I was able to use the bathroom.   The Monastery is very impressive looking with the buildings cascading down the hill,  similar to the one in Tibet.  Since the monastery normally closes at lunch,  we took the jeeps up and went through the various buildings,  including the kitchen and dining hall where the monks were eating lunch.  After,  we headed down to the bottom,  where there was a restaurant where we had lunch.   Most of us opted for skuye, which is a thick vegetable soup with gnocchi looking dumplings in it.   It was very tasty and much needed. We then headed back to the hotel.   A few of us went to get water and go for a drink for my birthday since the monastery restaurant didn’t serve alcohol.   We went to a nice place overlooking the main bazaar, which didn’t appear to be able to legally serve alcohol or maybe just not before dinner.   Therefore we were served our clandestine beers in tourist looking Ladakh mugs and were required to keep the bottles on the floor.   Was quite humorous how the beers we served in coffee mugs and the hot teas and coffees were served in her glasses.  After our beer we got some water and headed back to the hotel.  Had a quick briefing shortly after getting back and then headed for dinner in town.  While it was warm during the day, once the sun went down,  it really cooled off.   I had some mutton momos and egg fried rice for dinner,  which was way too much.   Then the restaurant staff brought out a birthday cake for me,  with candles.   It was a chocolate cake and was good.   After a good dinner and day, headed to bed as was exhausted. 


Monday August 29 – Delhi to Leh

Woke up today at 1:40 am – a bit before the 2 am wake up call, feeling not too bad.   Headed to the airport for our 5:30 am flight.  Had a Starbucks at the airport to try to avoid falling asleep on the short flight.   Wasn’t lucky enough to get a window seat but managed to have people on each side of the plane take some photos.   Got one of the sunrise and one of the sun hitting the mountains.  Arrived in Leh around 6:45 and got our transfer to the hotel.   Had a second breakfast at the hotel and got our rooms.   Took a bit of a nap to catch up on some sleep.   Given that Leh is at about 3800 metres our guide wanted us to rest.   Got up and had lunch in the hotel – some Indian buffet.   After lunch lounged around for a bit and then we had a briefing on AMS (acute mountain sickness) and then went for an orientation walk around Leh.   Leh is a small town, which is a based for hiking and other outdoor activities, similar to El Chalten in Argentina – lots of hikers and wanderers roaming about town.  Stopped for a latte near the main bazaar and went to a photo exhibition of photos of the Ladakh area, including some good snow leopard photos.  Got some filtered water at a stand to reduce plastic bottles and then headed back to the hotel for a relax on the terrace before dinner. There were some threatening clouds and a couple of drops of rain but the weather managed to hold up.   Definitely a lot drier and cooler than Delhi though.  Went to the room briefly to try and get some wifi but didn’t have any luck.   Felt like I was going to fall asleep so went to the roof to take some photos and then headed to the lobby to sit.   Chatted with our guide briefly and tried the wifi again before dinner.   Had dinner in the hotel tonight as the guide wanted us to rest as much as possible.  Was a pretty good Indian buffet.  After dinner headed back to the room to prepare for bed.  Was a brief power outage but only for a minute.   Feeling pretty tired after the early morning flight so I figure I should sleep well tonight.   Tomorrow will be some sightseeing around Leh.


Sunday August 28 – Delhi

Despite having went to bed at 2 am I managed to get up around 8 or so.   Got ready and went down for breakfast – some toast, fried eggs, potatoes, grilled fish and a donut.   While I was eating I think I spotted a few potential people from the group. Lounged around the breakfast room and then confirmed the group briefing time and went to the pool for a quick swim.   The pool was nice and definitely made the heat very pleasant.  As I was leaving the pool I met Julia from the UK, who was also in the group.   After a brief introduction I went up to change and told her I’d be down in a bit.  Got changed and went down to the bar for a beer.   Met Julia in the restaurant and chatted and then met Cheryl, who is sharing her room.   We then met some of the others in the group for the briefing.   The 3 that were on the organized flight had had their briefing earlier and there was apparently one more coming in later.   The other 2 were Kevin (from Scotland) and Danny (from London).  The guide Ranjeev mentioned that a couple had canceled last minute.  After the briefing the 5 of us went to have lunch and chat in the restaurant.   Then Julia and I went to the pool and the other 3 went sightseeing.   The pool was nice and we ran into Steve, who was on the group flight and who’d been posting on the group Internet board before the trip.   After the swim had a quick shower and then met Julia in the bar.   Danny joined us after they returned and then we met the other members of the group – Chris (from Australia), William (from the UK), and Jouni (Finnish from the UK).  Chris was apparently the one who was to arrive later but she had actually arrived the previous day.  We went for dinner to the same place I had gone last year.   I had some lamb kebabs and paneer parantha.   After dinner we went back to the hotel and Julia,  Danny and I went for a nightcap (water for Julia and I as we already had a few beer).  Since our flight over the Himilayas to Leh leaves at 5:15 am and we are leaving the hotel at 2:30, we called it a night at 9.  Typing this up now and heading to bed for a brief sleep before the 2am wake up call. Hoping that the wifi will be working in Leh so I will aim to post more tomorrow, including more photos. 


Saturday August 27 – Delhi

Managed to wake up around 8:30 after getting to bed so late.   Had some breakfast in the hotel restaurant,  Eggspectations, which is apparently Canadian,  according to the menu.   After breakfast I went to the spa for a massage to relax after the long day of travel yesterday. Good massage and steam room.  Then went to check out the pool.   No people there but lots of horns from the traffic around the hotel.   Went back to the room for a bit of a rest and to get the wifi running.   Ended up taking a lengthy nap.  Went for dinner in the hotel’s Indian restaurant.    Had some mutton kebabs which were not on a skewer but wrapped around a green onion instead.   Also had some rice,  garlic naan and some black lentil dal.  Was a lot of food and the server kept dishing up more.    After dinner headed back to the room.  Still tired so will try to get to bed at a reasonable time.   The rest of the group will be arriving tomorrow morning so there will be a group meeting sometime tomorrow. 


August 25-26 – YVR to Delhi

Flight from YVR to Beijing was a bit delayed but pretty good – definitely helped being in business class!  Transfer at the Beijing airport was a bit of chaos. The transfer desk couldn’t seem to print my boarding passes for some reason so after about 20 minutes they provide me with a handwritten boarding card and advised the gate agent would be able to print my passes. Headed through the transfer immigration counter, which had a bit of a line full of some people who did not apparently have adequate boarding cards. Fortunately my handwritten card did the job! Then waited in a chaotic line, which wrapped out the staircase, to go through security. They only had two desks opened and were incredibly slow. Made it through eventually and headed to my gate where they also seemed to have issues printing the card. Sat by the gate and was pleasantly surprised when the agent came over after about 30 minutes and provided me with my boarding cards :). The flight to Bangkok went by quickly as I slept most of the flight – decent seats in the Thai Royal Silk class, apart from the odd shoulder belt which was required for landing and take off.  I was expecting chaos in Bangkok but it was super efficient, well air conditioned and pleasant. Headed to the lounge for a brief bit and then boarded the flight to Delhi. This Thai aircraft didn’t have the shoulder belt and was comfortable. Relaxed and watched some movies on the 4 hour flight to Delhi but avoided sleep as I wanted to make sure I could sleep upon arrival at 2 am. Delhi airport was a breeze – no line at immigration so the priority line for business class wasn’t really needed and my luggage was quickly off the belt. Went outside and met my transfer pick up. He mentioned there was another in my group who would be arriving from Abu Dabi in an hour and asked if I wanted to wait. Since leaving now seemed to be an option, I opted for it. He was the same guy that met me last year and he got the driver to collect me. The driver, Anil, told me he would be my driver for my Golden Triangle extension. After the experience of the ride to the hotel, I’m guessing we’ll make good time, providing we survive! I don’t think Anil believes in lanes. Got to the hotel and quickly checked in. Managed to get to bed around 3:30 am.


2 more sleeps to go!

Only two more sleeps until I leave for India. Need to get the packing done tonight and make sure I have everything I need. Checked the weather in Delhi for my arrival and it looks like I’ll be hanging out at the pool over the weekend! Real feel of 48! Toasty…